Estate House, Turtle Bay, St. John, USVI

I spent the weekend at Caneel Bay Resort, which occupies a peninsula on the northwest corner of St. John. In its beautiful setting, the resort creates that world-apart sense of peace and well-being that only luxury accommodations and meticulous, round-the-clock service can create. That sense may be manufactured and/or temporary, but it’s right convincing while it lasts and it never lasts long enough.

Sugar mill ruins on Reef Bay Trail, St. John, USVI

Much of St. John (over 7,000 acres) is preserved as Virgin Islands National Park, and Don Near of the National Park Service guided us down Reef Bay Trail, sharing natural and cultural histories of the forest, from the sweet edible pulp inside “stinky toe” pods to the picturesque horror that was the sugar industry.

Virgin Islands Ecotours took us on an easy paddle from Caneel’s main dock to Scott Beach (also on the property), where we beached the kayaks and snorkeled with turtles (we snorkeled; the turtles held their breath).

Cinnamon Bay, St. John, USVI

My last day I got a ride up the coast to Cinnamon Bay and walked the very hilly road back, exploring Trunk Bay, Peace Hill and Hawksnest Beach along the way and finding ample justification for St. John’s reputation for natural beauty and great beaches. I want to go back and see the east end and the south coast and the interior …

Do you have any tips for visiting St. John? Share them in the comments.

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